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New To Z-Wave Home Automation?

The Z-Wave Buyers Guide

New To Z-Wave Home Automation?

Defining a “Smart Home"
"Smart Home" is a phrase that is often used in our marketing, but it may mean different things to different people. Answering the question “what is a smart home?” will help a beginner get the most out of his or her investment, and allow Zwaveproducts.com to better answer any questions that come up. I answer hundreds of questions; from elderly homeowners to professional installers. Most people that I chat with want to dabble in technology, make their lives a little easier, add some level of security, and be able to impress friends and family.



Home ‘assistant’ and 'smart speaker' devices like Amazon Echo or Google Home have become staples in many households, and are usually a gateway to home automation, once the user starts exploring options. The Amazon Echo (Alexa) has been a popular entry device into home automation, but its capabilities are sometimes misunderstood. But does adding a voice controlled device constitute a smart home? For many Alexa users, voice-controlling a few WiFi light bulbs is sufficient. On the other end of the spectrum, some users want the security of a panel from a nationally known alarm company, and will pay the monthly fees to have it monitored. Everyone is different, and the definition of a 'smart home' usually falls somewhere in between a single device and a million-dollar newly constructed showplace. This makes answering emails with the vague statement, “What do I need to get started in home automation?” a little difficult. It also adds spice when we sit around and discuss what is necessary to go into a ‘get started’ kit.

Simple
Nobody is more qualified to answer the question of what you need, than you. We can help you with describing the technology and what the device is called, but you either have something in your head, or you have seen a demo of something done. Start there. Concentrate on what your smart home is supposed to do for you. Read the following primer that discusses the more technical side, and then references some of our best devices (more information on any device can be found by clicking on the link, where available). When you’re done, contact us for more information on putting together a compatible Z-Wave network that’s right for you.

RF Protocols and Compatibility
Devices have varying levels of compatibility, depending on the radio protocol (language) you choose. There are pros and cons for each type. WiFi has great compatibility, but as it is broadcast where anyone can catch the signal, devices require passkeys to keep it secure. Bluetooth has a similar range and security concern as WiFi, but it’s only peer-to-peer, meaning there is no mesh network (you can’t add and utilize multiple devices at one time). Zigbee is a RF protocol that uses small bits of info, and its secret nature keeps it secure. Battery life is increased in battery-operated Zigbee devices, since there isn’t a lot of information transferred. Zigbee’s big flaw is its lack of cohesive operation between different brands. If you buy a controller from brand ABC and a bulb from XYZ, there’s a pretty good chance that they will not work together. Still, Zigbee is a ahead of WiFi and Bluetooth when it comes to running the show in your smart home. Z-Wave is our favorite RF protocol for controlling smart devices in the home automation field. Every controller has a secret home ID; every node has an ID assigned to that controller. Battery-operated devices benefit from long life due to tiny information transfers, and mains-powered devices work together in a mesh network to make sure each devices stays online. Devices from different manufacturers have a better than average chance of communicating together, thanks to the Z-Wave Alliance and their rules for certification. There’s a reason why were are zwaveproducts.com. We had (and still have) the chance to work with any RF radio we wanted, and we chose Z-Wave because we feel it is the best. Other protocols that are installed on popular gateways are Kidde and Lutron’s Clear Connect. They are similar to Zigbee and have a place in the smart home, but we still prefer Z-Wave.

Why is a hub necessary?
All Z-Wave networks start with a Z-Wave hub. Popular models are VeraPlusWINK 2, Samsung's SmartThings and FIBARO Home Center. A Z-Wave hub will sometimes be referred to as a Z-Wave controller. A hub with several radios is commonly called a gateway. No matter what the name, the purpose of the hub is to act as a central point between the internet and your Z-Wave devices. This allows you to control (or receive information from) your smart home, anywhere you can get to the internet. Z-Wave is exceptionally modular, so you can keep the costs down as you build your automation network. Most of our new customers get a hub and a few wall switches (or plug-in switches) and go from there.

The VeraPlus hub is great for starting any smart home. The FIBARO Home Center Lite is a robust, higher-end gateway

You almost can’t make a bad decision with getting started, as long as you know what your long term goals are. Ask your installer, or us, for more help on determining the correct hub for those goals. Buying a hub that won’t work with Amazon Echo will be a poor choice if one of your goals is to control lights from Alexa. If cameras are a big draw, you’re not going to be happy if your shiny gateway won’t run multiple cameras. Hopefully this “Getting Started” guide will help you understand what you are getting into. Why is a hub necessary with Z-Wave and not with WiFi? Because your smart phone doesn’t have the Z-Wave chip required to talk directly from App to device. The WiFi that’s in your smart phone controls the WiFi device, but also contributes to a very crowded and unstable network. Shop Z-Wave Controllers here.


Adding Lighting Controls
Once you have a hub, you’ll most likely consider adding some lighting controls. The line of ZLINK wall switches feature the ZL-WD-100 Smart Dimmer, ZL-WS-100 Smart Switch, and ZL-WA-100 Accessory Switch (for 3, 4, and 5 way applications). These devices work with almost any hub, which makes them simple from the smart home point of view. However, you’ll need to understand some electricity DIY basics, including if you have a neutral wire in the wall switch box (necessary, but not always present). Changing switches can be easy, but understand what you are getting into; contact an electrician if you feel overwhelmed. For lamp control with a different spin, consider an in-wall smart receptacle, like the GE 14288 In-Wall Smart Duplex Outlet. This device features two outlets; one Z-Wave controlled, and one always powered.



The ZLINK ZL-WD-100 Z-Wave Plus In-wall Dimmer is a feature-rich device with a great price point.

An alternative to wiring are plug-in dimmers and switches. The ZLINK ZL-PD-100 Plug-in Smart Dimmer and ZLINK PA-100 Plug-In Smart Appliance Switch plug right into your existing wall outlets; no wiring necessary. For lamps and fixtures with A-style bases, the GoControl LB60Z-1 Dimmable LED Flood gives you Z-Wave controlled lighting with the change of a lightbulb. For your track lights and recessed cans (4” or bigger) check out the GoControl LBR30Z-1 Dimmable Indoor Flood Light. Retrofit any incandescent recessed can with a new look and clean light of the GoControl LB65R6Z-1 Smart LED Recessed Retrofit Light Kit.  

For those who want to keep their 'dumb' switches, or for those who don't have a neutral wire in the wall switch box, there are in-wall modules. These are tiny devices that install behind the existing wall switch. The Aeotec ZW111 Nano Dimmer and the Fibaro Dimmer Module FGD-212 are great devices for this purpose. Shop all Z-Wave Lighting here.


Energy Savings via Climate Control
Wrestling the heating or A/C bill is a fairly easy concept. Change the thermostat and apply some automation (discussed later). However, like lighting controls, replacing your stat assumes you know a little bit about what is going on with that wire that runs from your living room to your furnace. Manufacturers do a great job describing the 50 ways your HVAC system could be wired, but its ultimately up to you (or your hired pro) to ensure correct installation. Z-Wave thermostats allow the user to view and adjust the heating or cooling for your home- or vacation home- or business, from anywhere.



With a smart thermostat, like the Trane XL624 pictured above, a user can add climate control and reap energy savings from his/her smart home.



For those with line-voltage baseboard heat, the Stelpro STZW402B+ does the job very well.


Adding Sensors
Sensors provide the touch and feel to your smart home. The Dome DMWD1 Mini Door/Window Sensor and GoControl WAPIRZ Motion Sensor can be used to trigger a scene, or send notifications to your phone about someone moving about. Add any non-Z-Wave dry contact sensor (driveway sensor, window tape, etc) to an Ecolink DWZWAVE2.5-ECO Door/Window Sensor for easy Z-Wave compatibility. To check if your garage door is open, use the Ecolink TILTZWAVE2-ECO Tilt Sensor the same way you’d use a door/window sensor in the rest of the house. Z-Wave sensors are unobtrusive and battery operated, allowing for simple installation and discrete notifications. The Aeon Labs ZW122 Water Sensor can start a scene (or send a notification) on your Z-Wave hub, depending on the presence OR absence of water.



The Ecolink Firefighter listens to your installed ‘dumb’ smoke and CO2 alarms, and can trigger a scene that kicks off a siren and sends a notification to your phone.


Securing your Home - Door Locks
Due to the security of the Z-Wave signal, lever locks and dead bolts are a popular addition to any smart home. Right now, our Z-Wave door locks will fit standard residential-style doors. For efficiency (battery life as well as secure locking) the door must be square and easy to close. If you find yourself leaning a shoulder into the door panel to squish 15 years of weatherstripping, a smart lock will not be a good choice for you. I find that a deadbolt gives me more security, and I recommend pairing the smart lock of your choice with a ‘dumb’ lever lock of the same color/manufacturer.


Electronic Z-Wave Door Locks, like the Yale Key Free Touchscreen Deadbolt YRD256-ZW2-619 pictured above, allow notifications and remote access to/from your smart device via your Z-Wave hub.


Adding Cameras
In order to understand camera integration, you will need to know a little background. Z-Wave is a radio protocol that allows a little bit of information to be shared. Bits are sent then acknowledged, and through this process your gateway tells your door lock to open, or your hall light to turn off. There is only enough information for directions, but not enough for any real meaty information. This is important, because while many devices have unlimited power (plugged in or wired to 120VAC), many are battery powered. This information has to be powerful enough to automate an entire house but also not drain the battery life of motion sensors, thermostats, and door locks. That rules out any bandwidth-heavy information draws like video, music, emails, and security cameras; items like that are usually left for WiFi or cellular transmission. So, why doesn’t Z-Wave use WiFi to communicate? Because WiFi is a very crowded place, and Z-Wave has proprietary means of securing information, so your neighbor isn’t turning his lights on and unlocking your back door, etc. What the home automation industry has done is in the form of integration. So your Z-Wave gateway handles all of your Z-Wave devices, and allows a connection to IP cameras via WiFi or a corded connection. Not to mention WiFi would really tax those battery operated devices and you’d be sending us your battery bills. All cameras, even those marketed as "Z-Wave Cameras," use a wired or WiFi connection to operate. Cameras can be key to any smart home, but understanding integration leads to many questions.


Vera VistaCam 900 pictured above.

I have “Z-Wave Controller X.” Will any of your cameras work? Just like Z-Wave, all these devices are expected to work, regardless of make or model. I find a lot of that to not be true. Our cameras will not work with WINK, and will not work with Nexia Bridge unless expressly made for this purpose. The cameras that we carry will work with many of the major alarm companies with two caveats: Some will not let you include 3rd party cameras into their systems, and some will not let you include any cameras without paying for a plan. Shop All Cameras here.

Other
While 'smart home' and 'security system' are sometimes used interchangeably, both phrases are actually pretty different. Regardless, you can add security to your home automation by scaring off intruders with a GoControl WA105DBZ-1 Siren and Strobe. Low voltage systems (zone valves, irrigation systems) can be added to your Z-Wave network using a relay, like the Remotec ZFM-80 15A Dry Contact Module. Want to keep your controls in your pocket? Aside from your smart phone, you can also control scenes from a remote, like the Aeotec ZW088-A Key Fob.

Get Started
As alluded to above, we really do sit and discuss customer needs, and put them together in cost and time-saving kits. Shop All Z-Wave Getting Started Kits Here.

Automation
So, taking into account the primer on the hardware listed above, what are some basic things that you can do in a smart home?

Get a notification that a child or spouse got home safely (hub and smart lock) 
Create scenes for entertaining, utility, safety, energy savings (hub and wall dimmers, plug-in switches, Smart LED bulbs, or any combo of these) 
Turn a dumb coffee pot into coffee waking you up in the morning (hub and appliance module + dumb coffee pot) 
Monitor your home via your smart phone from work (hub and IP camera) 
Create a schedule for your HVAC system that is as flexible as you want to make it. (hub and smart thermostat) 
Automatic closet/utility room lighting that turns off when nobody is using it (hub, door/window sensor, and Smart LED bulb) 
Have your outside lights come on as soon as you get home (geofence via the hub, wall switches controlling the outside lighting) 
Receive a notification on your phone that water is in your basement (hub and water sensor) 
Turn your lights on/off/dim via Amazon Echo (Echo-compatible hub, Amazon Echo, and wall dimmers, plug-in switches, Smart LED bulbs, or any combo of these) 
Scare away a prowler using a scene controller/key fob (hub, remote, and your choice of lighting controls) 
Get a notification on your smart phone if your home temperature has dropped (hub and smart thermostat) 
Water your lawn (or not) based on current weather forecast (hub, weather plug-in for your hub, smart relay) 
Alert the house (and neighborhood) of unauthorized entry into your home with a siren (hub, door/window sensor, siren/strobe)

Conclusion
What does a Smart Home mean to you? Ask the team at Zwaveproducts.com to help you put together your smart home automation system.

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• Need immediate help? Call our tech department at 201.706.7198 (9-5 Eastern Time, M-F).
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More on How To Use a Z-Wave LED Bulb in your smart home

More on How To Use a Z-Wave LED Bulb in your smart home
Adding Z-Wave to your smart house or apartment can be as simple as changing a light bulb. What could be easier?
No wiring, no mess; unscrew a dumb bulb and install a Z-Wave LED. Nothing more, right?

Not so fast.

Z-Wave LED Bulbs are a simple and inexpensive way to add Z-Wave to your home, but there are a few things you should know:

1. Z-Wave bulbs, like all Z-Wave devices*, need to be powered all the time.
Z-Wave devices have a network of neighboring devices that help distribute commands throughout your smart home.
This network is called the ‘mesh,’ and it’s one of the reasons why Z-Wave is so solid. However, if you power down
a device in the network, the others will get confused, and the communication may suffer.

This doesn't mean that your light bulb has to be on all the time. It just means that you need to electronically control the LED.

Don’t put a Z-Wave LED where someone could flip a switch and turn off the light.
* Battery-operated devices don’t participate in repeating so are excluded from this example.



What to do instead:
A. Since you can't turn the bulb off manually, Use Amazon Alexa or Google Home to voice control the LED bulbs.
Your smart home assistant, along with a compatible Z-Wave gateway or hub, is an easy way to control your home with no wiring or fuss.
Pair the Z-Wave LED with your Z-Wave hub, have your SA find your smart devices, and you’re good to go.

B. Include one or several Z-Wave devices in a scene.
Use the smart app on your smartphone to set the scene; literally. Full brightness for homework or utility work.
Soft or colored for romantic vacations at home. Somewhere in the middle for meals or watching TV. It’s all up to you and the combinations are limitless.

C. Use a trigger to automate the LED.
Use a motion or door/window sensor to trigger the bulb by setting up a scene on your Z-Wave hub. Similar to B,
this idea is great for when you need light as you pass through a hallway or open a closet door. Create another scene to turn off the LED after a few minutes of inactivity.

2. Z-Wave bulbs like to be indoors.
While the benefits of putting a smart bulb in an exterior fixture are obvious, most Z-Wave LEDs are made for indoor use. They are not waterproof, and Smart LEDs can generate
some heat. Not from the bulb, but from the electronics at the bottom, so consider the type of enclosure or fixture you use with your smart bulb.

3. Z-Wave LED Bulbs require a Z-Wave Controller.
Since there is no Z-Wave chip in your smartphone, Z-Wave LEDs, like all Z-Wave devices, require some type of Z-Wave Controller (hub, gateway, etc).
Be sure your Z-Wave Controller is compatible with any smart home assistant you plan to use (Alexa, Google Home, HomeKit, etc).

Lamps plugged into dumb outlets usually are the best for smart Z-Wave bulbs. The porcelain lamp holders in garages, closets, and basements are also good, if you can hide the pull chain or stop yourself from reaching for it. Some Z-Wave LED bulbs come with small covers that help prevent you from flipping a toggle switch off and breaking your Z-Wave mesh network


Using a motion sensor to trigger a smart Z-Wave LED bulb

Cost = $55       Time = 25 minutes:

(assuming you have a Z-Wave Controller)

Having a smart home shouldn’t require pulling out the phone for every task. It’s fairly easy to install a PIR motion sensor and have it trigger a smart LED bulb.
In this example, we chose the EcoLink PIRZWAVE2.5 and the Go Control LB60Z-1 Dimmable LED Light Bulb

First, the PIR motion sensor:

1. Consider traffic patterns and how you’d like pedestrian motion to trigger the PIR sensor.
A sharper angle for hallways and above stairs, and a longer reach for living rooms or offices.
Be wary of places where triggering the motion sensor (from another room, for example) would
turn on lights needlessly.

2. Place your Z-Wave Controller (gateway, hub) into inclusion mode.

3. Immediately insert the battery into the PIRZWAVE2.5 and wait for the LED to light for 10 seconds and then go out.
Name the sensor on your Z-Wave Controller.

4. Temporarily mount the sensor and test the operation. Leave the room for over 4 minutes then walk back towards the sensor.
If the red LED lights at the correct place, you’re ready to move on. If it doesn’t respond expectedly, move the sensor accordingly and try again.

5. Once you are satisfied with the placement, permanently mount the sensor.

Add the Z-Wave LED Bulb

1. With the power off, screw in the LED to a lamp or fixture.

2. Place your Z-Wave Controller (gateway, hub) into inclusion mode.

3. Turn the power on. After the operation completes, name the bulb (multi-level light switch) on your Z-Wave Controller.

Putting it all together.

1. Use your Z-Wave controller to set up a scene that says, ‘if motion sensor detects motion in any state (arm/disarm) turn on LED to 100%.

2. Use your Z-Wave controller to set up a scene that says, ‘if motion sensor does not detect motion in any state (arm/disarm) for over 5 minutes, turn LED OFF.

You can also have this scene run only at certain times, to eliminate a LED coming on during the day. You can also override the scene by using Amazon Alexa or Google Home to turn the LED on/off immediately.


Have questions? Please feel free to send me a message using the link in the bottom right corner, or ask our team at Ask An Expert.







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Tame Old Man Winter with this Simple Z-Wave "Hack"

Tame Old Man Winter with this Simple Z-Wave "Hack"
Now that Thanksgiving is officially over, most of the US focuses on some type of cold(er) weather that puts us in a good holiday mood. But what about your furnace? Does it keep running even with the doors open? As guests, children, and deliverymen conspire to keep your doors ajar, there's an easy automation setup that will help tame those energy bills. And this setup will also allow programming of your thermostat to account for changing holiday schedules; work, vacation. You can even manually monitor the temperature from work or while on vacation.

This setup will run under $220 and allows you to automatically turn the heat off when the door is opened for more than a pre-set amount of time. Like everything with Z-Wave devices, you can modify this as needed to fit your lifestyle. And while this is a great start, for a nominal additional cost, you can add more temperature sensors to get notifications of freezing temps that may bust your pipes while you're away.



The 3 pieces of this project are a WINK 2 hub, a GC-TBZ48 Z-Wave thermostat from Go Control, and a ZW120 Door/Window sensor from Aeon Labs.

Replace your existing thermostat with the Go Control (instructions on how to do that are here) After downloading the free WINK 2 App, setting up the WINK 2, add the stat and sensor to your network. Check out my blog WINK 2 OVERVIEW for a few tips.

Something new regarding sensors that wasn't in my previous entries, you can select the type of door for the best calibration of the device (you'll see this screen when you're just about done adding the sensor).





By this point you'll be able to control the stat from your smart phone, but that's no fun. Let's create a simple Robot (the WINK word for scene, or automation) to keep that warm air inside.

First, create a new robot by selecting the Robot at the bottom of the main screen, then selecting the + for "Create a New Robot".

You'll have a few choices, including schedule, device, or geocaching. We're going to have the sensor drive this Robot, so choose Product or Sensor.



You have many choices to set up the Robot. In this example I chose, if Any Entry Door Sensor, at any time of day, is open for more than 10 minutes, then turn the thermostat from Heat to Off, and notify me via push notifications from my WINK 2 App on my phone.

Having a grace period (in this case, 10 minutes) to allow the kids or pets to enter or exit the home allows the heat to run for a little while.

    

You can create a similar Robot to turn the heat back on after all the doors are closed for more than 10 minutes. This system will work with windows too; you just add as many sensors as your home needs and add those sensors to the Robot.

Do you want a notification if your crawl space or basement is experiencing flooding or freezing temps?  There's a host of sensor that can help out here as well.  Check out the Fortezz Water and Temperature Sensor and Fibaro Flood Sensor with Temperature Monitoring

Did I get it right? Do you have any questions or issues?

In the bottom right corner of this website is a link to Leave me a Message.

Alternately . . . Ask An Expert by filling out this form, and one of our experts will get back to you with an answer.

I hope this was helpful. Please share this, and check out my other blogs!
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ZWP Dimmers and Switches now available in 3-Way Kits!

ZWP WD-100, WS-100, and WA-100

ZWP Dimmers and Switches now available in 3-Way Kits!
The majority of our users have purchased and successfully installed our ZWP line of switches and dimmers. They appreciated the quality and cost.
However, we are getting some of repeat questions when it comes to 3-Way switches.


We have added kits that help simplify your 3-Way WA-100 switch purchase. Below is some information that should help.

Definitions
 
Single pole: Your ‘average’ switch- the light is controlled from one location.

3-way: When the light is controlled from two locations. Also called upstairs/downstairs switches in some regions.

Primary switch: In a 3-way installation, the Primary switch contains the Z-Wave chip. The device used in Single pole applications is the Primary - same device.

Auxiliary switch: In a 3-way installation, the Auxiliary switch gives an alternate switch location. An Auxiliary switch CANNOT be used by itself as a Primary switch and is only used with a Primary.

Load: The light, fixture, or other item you want to turn on/off/dim.

Line: The source of the electricity from the electric box/fuse box.

Neutral: The return route of electricity. When installing a Smart Switch, a neutral is required. See What to Know Before Changing Your Wall Switch for more on Neutrals.

Traveler Wire: Also called the "common" wire, this power line is fed into the common terminal of one of the switches.

Toggle: Type of switch that sort-of looks like an older ‘standard’ switch, and will fit toggle face plates. We do not have any ZWP toggle dimmers or toggle switches, but they are available from GE/JASCO

Rocker: (also called a paddle switch or known by a brand name "Decora") Type of switch with a wider surface than the toggle. Most modern homes have rocker switches, and this is among the first upgrades done by DIYer’s.

Understanding 3-way Circuits
A 3-way switch is a setup where a load is controlled from 2 locations. There are also 4-way (3 locations), 5-way (4 locations) and even 6-way (5 locations) or more. For Z-Wave purposes (and this blog entry) we are writing about how to install ZWP 3-Way Smart Switches. NOTE: most Z-Wave devices will support up to a 5-way switch.

Why is it called a 3-way? I’ve been told that it’s because there are 3 ways for the electricity to flow, or that originally there were 3 points of contact. Nothing seems to make sense to me, and I will leave the nomenclature for electricians and scholars. The average DIY handyman/woman will need to know a single pole switch and a 3-way.

You’ve got a 3-way that you want to add to your Z-Wave network. Now what? The first step in automating your basic 3-way setup is identifying the wiring. There are at least 5 ways of wiring a 3-way switch, and each of those will require a slightly different setup. As we do not give electrical advice on this blog, we will assume you have the “standard” way that professionals will wire a 3-way circuit and refer to the wiring diagram below (full instructions available here). Know that there may be other ways before you play “Eeny, meeny, miny, mo” (yes, it happens) with the ‘extra’ wires. When in doubt, please call an electrician.



What is an Auxiliary Switch?
Smart switches can be broken up into 2 main categories: Primary Switches and Auxiliary Switches. A Primary (also known as a Master) switch contains the Z-Wave chip. It’s the more expensive of the pair. If you are only replacing one switch (non 3-way) then you would choose a Primary switch and be done.

An Auxiliary (also known as a slave or add-on) switch gives an alternate location to control the Primary switch. An Auxiliary switch will not control a load, or even work with a Z-Wave network since it does not have a Z-Wave chip. An Auxiliary is required when you want to automate a 3-way circuit. The old, existing dumb switch will NOT serve as an Auxiliary switch. A Primary Switch and Auxiliary Switch will NOT communicate wirelessly; you need the existing wiring that supported the dumb 3-Way switches.

   

What is the difference in Model Numbers?
(Click on the model number to open the product page in a new tab).

The WD-100 is an in-wall Z-Wave Plus Multi-level Light Dimmer

The WS-100 is an in-wall Z-Wave Plus ON/OFF Light Switch

The WA-100 is an in-wall Auxiliary Switch for both of the above
NOTE: Auxiliary switches will ‘become’ the type of device it supports; a dimmer becomes a dimmer; a switch becomes a switch.

The KITZWP-WD-WA-100 is a Dimmer/Auxiliary Switch set for 3-Way applications

The KITZWP-WS-WA-100 is an ON/OFF Switch/Auxiliary Switch set for 3-Way applications

Multi-gang Switch Boxes
When you have multiple switches in the same box, this is called a multi-gang switch installation. Although you MAY have one or more 3-way circuits in a multi-gang box, each of the switches in that box will be it's own circuit. Handle these like any other single gang installation with one caveat: You may not be able to fit multiple Smart Switches next to one another. In this case follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to clip/break off the heat sink tabs on the sides of the switch. This will allow you to fit more switches side-by-side, but removing tabs will decrease the load rating of the switch. Read the instructions that come with the switch for more information.

NOTE: This is an updated version of a previous blog that specified GE/JASCO devices instead of ZWP devices.

Have questions? See any errors/omissions/confusion? Please leave a message using the link in the bottom right of this screen, or fill out our Ask An Expert form for more help with your Z-Wave installation projects.
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